Graff Jewelry: The Collections That Define the Diamond House
Graff is most famous for extraordinary diamonds, but the house is not defined only by rare stones or one-of-a-kind high jewelry.
Its permanent collections reveal another side of the brand. Butterfly, Wild Flower, Tilda’s Bow, Icon and Laurence Graff Signature turn the house’s diamond expertise into designs that can be recognised, collected and worn repeatedly.
Each collection expresses a different personality. Butterfly is delicate and symbolic. Wild Flower feels organic and joyful. Tilda’s Bow is sculptural and romantic, while Laurence Graff Signature replaces traditional motifs with faceted gold. Icon places the emphasis directly on the shape and brilliance of an important central diamond.
Understanding these distinctions makes choosing Graff jewelry considerably easier.
TL;DR
- Graff was founded in London in 1960 and built its reputation around exceptional diamonds.
- Butterfly is the house’s most recognisable nature-inspired collection.
- Wild Flower uses intentionally varied petals to create a freer floral design.
- Tilda’s Bow recreates the movement of a hand-tied ribbon in diamonds.
- Laurence Graff Signature is the strongest option for modern daily jewelry.
- Icon and Classic Graff place greater emphasis on individual diamond shapes.
- Spiral, Threads and Tribal offer more graphic or directional alternatives.
- The right collection depends on whether you value symbolism, everyday versatility, sculptural design or gemstone presence.
Graff Collections at a Glance
| Collection | Defining Idea | Best For |
|---|---|---|
| Butterfly | Diamond butterflies in delicate or graphic arrangements | A recognisable house motif |
| Wild Flower | Irregular diamond flowers inspired by nature | Romantic jewelry with a relaxed spirit |
| Tilda’s Bow | Sculptural ribbons tied into diamond bows | Gifts, celebrations and feminine statement pieces |
| Laurence Graff Signature | Faceted gold inspired by diamond geometry | Contemporary everyday jewelry |
| Icon | Central diamonds surrounded by pavé halos | Milestones and gemstone-focused designs |
| Classic Graff | Solitaires, line bracelets and timeless diamond forms | Traditional fine-jewelry wardrobes |
| Spiral | Gold and diamonds following a continuous curve | Sleek, architectural styling |
| Threads | Linear diamonds arranged in asymmetric formations | Modern layering and directional jewelry |
| Tribal | Abstract symbols, moons and sculptural silhouettes | Dramatic evening pieces |
What Defines the House of Graff?
Founded by Laurence Graff in London in 1960, the house developed its reputation by working with important diamonds at every scale, from polished solitaires to historically significant stones and elaborate high-jewelry suites.
That diamond-first perspective influences even Graff’s more wearable collections. Metal is frequently designed to disappear beneath pavé stones, while individual diamond cuts are positioned to emphasise light, movement and symmetry.
Several qualities recur throughout the house:
- Pavé settings that closely follow the underlying shape
- Combinations of round, pear, marquise and emerald-cut diamonds
- White gold or platinum that visually recedes beneath the stones
- Repeated motifs that remain legible at different sizes
- Jewelry designed to move naturally against the body
- Significant attention to the outline and proportions of every piece
This helps distinguish Graff from houses led primarily by logos or ornamental goldwork. Even when the motif is a flower or butterfly, the diamonds remain the central visual material.
Butterfly: The Most Recognisable Graff Motif
Butterfly is the natural starting point for anyone seeking an immediately recognisable Graff design.
The collection interprets the wings and movement of a butterfly through diamonds, coloured gemstones and open metalwork. Some pieces use a simple outline, while others cover the entire motif in pavé or arrange marquise and pear-shaped stones to form the wings.
The broader family includes several interpretations:
- Butterfly Silhouette: Light, open and relatively understated
- Pavé Butterfly: Greater brilliance and a more visible motif
- Classic Butterfly: Diamond arrangements that emphasise symmetry
- Gemstone Butterfly: Coloured stones offering stronger contrast
- High-jewelry designs: Multiple butterflies or cascading compositions
A small pendant or pair of studs can work as daily jewelry because the motif remains delicate. Larger earrings and necklaces feel more decorative and are better suited to occasions.
Butterfly is especially appropriate for symbolic gifts. Its associations with transformation, freedom and renewal give it meaning without requiring an inscription or overtly sentimental message.
Wild Flower: Nature Without Perfect Symmetry
Wild Flower approaches floral jewelry with greater irregularity. Its blooms are not constructed as perfectly uniform rosettes. Instead, the petals vary in shape, size and angle, creating the suggestion of flowers growing freely.
The design is still highly polished, but it feels less formal than traditional floral high jewelry. Individual blooms can appear on pendants and stud earrings, while rings, bangles and necklaces combine flowers in different sizes.
Graff describes the collection as a celebration of flowers in their naturally varied forms. Pieces such as the Wild Flower Diamond Pendant use layered, individually shaped petals to give the motif dimension.
Wild Flower is a good choice if you want:
- A feminine motif that does not feel rigid
- Diamond jewelry with visible depth
- A design that can grow into a larger collection
- Floral symbolism without coloured gemstones
- A piece that feels joyful rather than ceremonial
A single-flower pendant is the most versatile introduction. Cluster rings and multi-flower necklaces make a stronger statement.
Tilda’s Bow: Diamonds With the Movement of Ribbon
Tilda’s Bow takes a familiar decorative symbol and gives it volume.
Instead of producing a flat, perfectly symmetrical bow, Graff recreates the folds and tension of fabric tied by hand. Pavé diamonds follow the curves, while the loops and ribbon ends appear to turn in different directions.
That sculptural construction is what makes the collection interesting. From the front, the motif appears graceful and recognisable. From an angle, its raised curves reveal considerably more complexity.
The collection works particularly well for gifts connected to relationships, anniversaries or family bonds. A bow naturally suggests something given, joined or held together, but the design remains sophisticated enough to avoid feeling overly literal.
Smaller stud earrings and pendants can be worn frequently. Rings and larger earrings draw more attention to the three-dimensional construction and suit someone who wants the motif to be clearly visible.
Laurence Graff Signature: The Modern Everyday Collection
Laurence Graff Signature is a departure from the house’s butterflies, flowers and bows. Its design language comes from diamond geometry itself.
Gold surfaces are divided into angular facets, creating changing reflections as the piece moves. Some designs are fully polished, others are set with pavé diamonds, and many combine both treatments.
It is arguably Graff’s easiest collection to integrate into a contemporary wardrobe. The motifs are abstract, the gold is more visible, and the rings, bangles and chains can be layered without creating an overtly formal appearance.
Yellow gold gives Signature pieces warmth and graphic definition. White gold with pavé diamonds feels cooler and more discreet, while mixed polished-and-diamond surfaces provide the clearest sense of the faceted construction.
Choose this collection if you prefer jewelry that is:
- Modern rather than romantic
- Suitable for frequent wear
- Recognisable through texture rather than a figurative motif
- Easy to combine with an existing ring or bracelet stack
- Available in both diamond-heavy and gold-focused interpretations
Icon and Classic Graff: When the Diamond Comes First
Icon is for the buyer who wants to see the individual character of a central diamond.
The collection is named after the 90.97-carat D Flawless Graff Icon diamond, cut and polished by the house in 2000. Its jewelry typically surrounds a round, oval, pear, heart or other shaped central stone with a fine pavé halo. (Graff Icon Pear Shape Pendant)
The halo increases the visual presence of the center diamond without obscuring its outline. This makes Icon particularly well suited to milestone jewelry, including significant birthdays, anniversaries and wedding gifts.
Classic Graff is even more restrained. Solitaire pendants, diamond studs, line bracelets and eternity-style bands allow cut, proportion and brilliance to carry the design.
The decision between them is straightforward:
| Choose Icon If… | Choose Classic Graff If… |
|---|---|
| You want a defined pavé halo | You prefer a cleaner solitaire setting |
| The overall visual impact matters | The individual stone should dominate |
| You like recognisable collection styling | You want a design independent of trends |
| The piece marks a major occasion | You are building a permanent jewelry wardrobe |
For either collection, compare the stone shapes on the body rather than choosing from photographs alone. Pear and oval diamonds can create visual length, while round stones offer symmetry and concentrated brilliance.
Spiral, Threads and Tribal: The More Directional Side
Not every Graff collection is based on a recognisable object.
Spiral wraps polished or diamond-set gold into a continuous curve. Rings and bangles feel sleek and controlled, making the collection a strong alternative to conventional diamond bands.
Threads uses lines of diamonds in asymmetric arrangements. The pieces often appear to trace light across the body, giving earrings and pendants a more contemporary rhythm.
Tribal is bolder. Its abstract moons, drops and symbolic forms have a ceremonial quality that works particularly well in larger earrings and necklaces.
These collections suit buyers who appreciate Graff’s craftsmanship but do not identify with overtly romantic motifs. They are also useful for creating contrast within an established jewelry wardrobe.
How to Choose the Right Graff Collection
Begin with how you expect to wear the piece rather than selecting the most elaborate design.
| Your Priority | Strongest Collection |
|---|---|
| Recognisable Graff symbolism | Butterfly |
| Floral design with organic movement | Wild Flower |
| A romantic or relationship-focused gift | Tilda’s Bow |
| Modern jewelry for frequent wear | Laurence Graff Signature |
| A major central diamond | Icon |
| Timeless studs, solitaires or line jewelry | Classic Graff |
| Clean sculptural curves | Spiral |
| Asymmetric contemporary styling | Threads |
| Dramatic evening presence | Tribal |
Also consider scale. A motif that looks subtle as a pendant can become considerably more expressive as a ring or pair of drop earrings. If the piece is intended for daily use, test whether it catches on clothing, competes with other jewelry or feels comfortable after several hours.
White gold generally makes the setting recede and places maximum attention on the diamonds. Yellow or rose gold creates more contrast and can make the underlying design easier to appreciate.
Shop the Edit
Butterfly Silhouette Diamond Pendant
A delicate introduction to Graff’s best-known motif
Tilda’s Bow Diamond Stud Earrings
A meaningful gift with a recognisable but compact design
Laurence Graff Signature Pavé Diamond Bangle
Modern stacking and frequent wear
Designs, metals, diamond weights and availability may vary by market.
Pros and Cons
| Pros | Cons |
|---|---|
| Exceptional emphasis on diamond cutting and setting | Prices can rise significantly with diamond weight |
| Several recognisable motifs with distinct personalities | Many designs require professional cleaning and inspection |
| Collections range from discreet daily pieces to high jewelry | Pavé-heavy pieces may be less practical for active routines |
| White, yellow and rose gold provide different styling options | Some motifs can feel highly romantic or occasion-specific |
| Strong selection of symbolic milestone gifts | Online images cannot fully communicate stone presence |
| Core collections can be expanded gradually | Important diamond pieces are best selected in person |
Final Verdict
Graff’s defining collections succeed because they give exceptional diamonds a clear identity.
Butterfly is the most recognisable choice and the easiest place to begin if you want a signature house motif. Wild Flower offers a freer and more organic interpretation of nature, while Tilda’s Bow turns emotional symbolism into sculptural jewelry.
Laurence Graff Signature is the strongest option for modern daily wear because its faceted gold designs can be layered and styled without feeling ceremonial. Icon and Classic Graff are better suited to buyers who want the diamond itself—its cut, scale and brilliance—to dominate.
Spiral, Threads and Tribal complete the picture by showing that Graff can be architectural and abstract as well as romantic.
The best Graff piece is not necessarily the design with the greatest diamond weight. It is the collection whose visual language matches how you dress, what the occasion means and how frequently you expect to wear it.
